Henschke winery

May 10, 2020 by Vic Harradine

The stone church built in 1860 sits opposite the Hill of Grace vineyard also planted at that time—although it’s not on an actual hill, the land is somewhat flat. The stone-cellar building at the present Henschke winery was also built in the 1860s. Present owner/winemaker and 5th generation, Stephen Henschke’s forefathers were there at that time as well, planting vines and making wine on site—Johann Christian Henschke planted a small vineyard at Keyneton in 1862. Stephen and his skilled viticulturist wife, Prue, continue the incredible success story of this family-owned, family-run, world-renowned winery.They are known not only for their fabulous wine, but for their focus on sustainability and innovative techniques, especially in the vineyard—they have a unique nursery program preserving the genetic heritage of their oldest vines. Their philosophy is, ‘Exceptional wines from outstanding vineyards’. They are proud to be one of the select—only 11—family-owned wineries to form Australia’s First Families of Wine representing over a century of winemaking experience and excellence.

Stone church opposite the Hill of Grace vineyard.

To the knowledgeable wine-lover, Henschke is revered for their owners and their fabulous wines. Prue and Stephen have both received prestigious, personal recognition awards and their wines are the recipients of numerous medals, trophies and Best of Show accolades along with a collective, ‘Winery of the Year’. They have an amazing four wines listed on the prestigious Langton’s Classification of Australian Fine Wines . There are many facets of day-to-day practices contributing to their success with none more important than Prue’s organic/biodynamic farming practices. They diligently follow the lunar calendar making their organic preparations for composting and sprays. They also add mulch under vines and plant native plants to attract beneficial insects that attack pests. It has become the mantra of almost every winemaker on earth, ‘Wine is made in the vineyard’. The Henschkes, past and present, don’t just say it, they live it—with their children alongside—and the 6th generation is now well and truly in training. And, yes, there’s now a 7th, though still quite young.

To order the following Henschke wines by the case for delivery to your home, office or restaurant, simply order from Breakthru Beverage Group. For assistance with locating or ordering their wines available by the bottle or by the case, you can contact their office at 647-790-0550 option #2 or send an email to ordersbw@breakthrubev.com

The Henschkes family.

Upstream in winecurrent

Classics Catalogue Release: January 7, 2021

• The following 2017 Henschke ‘Henry’s Seven’ is a blend of 73% shiraz/17% grenache/5% mataro/5% viognier grown in the Eden Valley and the Barossa Valley allowing it to use the ‘Barossa’ Geographical Indication (G.I.). It was named to honor Henry Evans who planted a seven-acre plot in Keyneton in 1853 and made wine considered the best in the southern colony. Unfortunately he died in 1868 and his wife, a virtuous woman with a temperance philosophy, ripped up all the vines.

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Henschke ‘Henry’s Seven’ 2017
Barossa, South Australia $49.95 (685578) 14.5% alcohol
Violets, red berry fruit and mixed spice intertwine with aromas of black juicy plum and notions of dark bramble berry, It coats the palate with flavours of strawberry and black raspberry mingling with black pepper and savoury notes and framed by excellent acidity riding a wave of passionfruit and red currant. This is medium-full bodied with silky-smooth texture, a firm, ripe tannin underpinning and replays of palate flavours on the dry, mouth-watering finish and aftertaste. Good to go now after a two-hour aeration/decant and on to 2035. (Vic Harradine)

Classics Catalogue Release: TBD 2020 - 2021

• The following 2015 Henschke ‘Keyneton Euphonium’ is primarily a shiraz blend with the following varietal components—66% shiraz/19% cabernet sauvignon, 10% merlot/5% cabernet franc grown in Eden Valley and the Barossa Valley. Wine matured in 80% seasoned and 20% new, 300-litre French hogshead barrels for 18 months before blended and bottled. An outstanding vintage, this extends its optimum drinking window between now, after a three-hour aeration/decant, and 2038.

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Henschke ‘Keyneton Euphonium’ 2015
Barossa, South Australia $78.95 (407577) 14.5% alcohol
Alluring aromas of dark fruit—cherries, bramble berry and plum—mingle with vanilla, sprigs of savoury herbs and violets on the nose of this structured and complex, thing of beauty. It surges over the palate with creamy-smooth texture and a smorgasbord of flavour with black currant and black juicy cherry mingling with black pepper, sweet vanilla hints of blueberry and mocha. This is framed with good tang and acidity and underpinned by soft, ripe tannin. There’s persistent purity of fruit, good balance and a boatload of charm. It took great discipline to spit, rather than swallow this, when tasting. (Vic Harradine)

Previously Released

• The following wine—2015 Henschke ‘Cyril Henschke’ Cabernet Sauvignon—honors a truly outstanding Australian winemaking pioneer, present owner Stephen Henschke’s late father, Cyril Henschke (1924-1979). Cyril planted cabernet sauvignon vines in the Henschke Eden Valley vineyard in the 1960’s. Fruit for this wine was sourced from those vines that are now biodynamically managed. Wine matured in 80% seasoned and 20% new, 300-litre French hogshead barrels for 18 months before blended and bottled. An outstanding vintage, this extends its optimum drinking window between 2024 and 2040.

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Henschke ‘Cyril Henschke’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2015
Eden Valley, South Australia $215.00 (426395) 14.5% alcohol
An involved nose of delightful aromas—dark berry and black cherry fruit intertwined with savoury herbs, mixed spice and sandalwood—abound. This is medium-full bodied with excellent mouthfeel and is balanced on a pin. It blankets the palate with a stunning mouthful of flavours—black currant, mixed herbs and spice, hints of blueberry and ripe mulberry mingling with espresso roast and vanilla. It’s underpinned by ripe, still-evolving tannin and showcases a monumentally lengthy finish and aftertaste. Open 2024 to 2040. (Vic Harradine)

Classics Catalogue Release: September 3, 2020

• The following 2014 Henschke Hill of Grace was sourced from 100% pre-phylloxera material brought from Europe by settlers in the mid-1800s and grown on the single-vineyard, ‘Hill of Grace’ in the ‘High Eden’ at approximately 400m. The now biodynamically farmed vineyard is located opposite a beautiful Lutheran church named after a region in Silesia called ‘Gnadenberg’, meaning, Hill of Grace. This wine was matured 18 months in 89% French and 11% American, 33% new and 67% seasoned—300-litre hogsheads. The Henschke’s borrow words of the Greek poet, Homer, to describe the Hill of Grace 2014 vintage, ‘Beauty — it was a glorious gift of nature.’ An excellent vintage, this extends its optimum drinking window between 2023 and +2040.

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Henschke ‘Hill of Grace’ 2014
Eden Valley, South Australia $1,130.00 (399675) 14.5% alcohol
Aromas of violets, black pepper, sage and savoury herbs interlace with black bramble berry and juicy black cherry. This is fresh and lively on the palate with a gusher of ripe bramble berry and blueberry flavour mingling and melding with gamy notes, savoury herbs, spice and an underpinning of fine, ripe tannin that extends, along with palate replays, through the lengthy, lip-smacking finish and aftertaste. This has long life ahead that will repay patience; open between 2023 and +2040. (Vic Harradine)

Upstream in Winecurrent

Vintage Release Date: TBD

• The following 2017 Tilly’s Vineyard white blend—55% semillon/22%sauvignon blanc/12% pinot gris/6% chardonnay/5% riesling—was sourced in the Eden Valley and the Henschke Lenswood vineyard in the Adelaide Hills. It pays homage to great-aunt Ottilie Mathilde ‘Tilly’ Henschke and to most women of her era that worked the land, grew their own produce and raised a large family. The Lenswood vineyard in the Adelaide Hills was caught up with the fires that swept through there in early 2020. We tasted the wines below at Henschke not long after on March 12, 2020 and at that time they said some of the vines might survive. A real shame, if they don’t.

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Henschke ‘Tilly’s Vineyard’ 2017
Eden Valley and Adelaide Hills, South Australia $30.00 12.0% alcohol
Fruit for this wine was sourced from a standout vintage giving the bottled wine optimum drinking life until, at least, 2026. It’s pale-yellow hued with hints of green on the edges. Aromas of green savoury herbs and yellow peach mingle with citrus notes on the nose. A medium-bodied, creamy smooth wash of Key lime, yellow nectarine and lemon race across the palate with great élan. These flavours and their lively tang persist through the crisp and refreshing finish and aftertaste. Versatile at the table, pour with pan-seared fish or seafood under a squeeze of fresh lemon or lemon chicken. (Vic Harradine)

• The following 2019 Henschke ‘Julius’ Riesling was named in honor of the present owner Stephen Henschke’s late, great-uncle, Julius Henschke, who was, and still is, known for his artistic prowess as an artist and sculpture. His most inspiring work is the War Memorial on North Terrace in Adelaide. Fruit for the following wine was sourced from the Eden Valley and from 100% Riesling with the majority from 50-year-old and even older estate, biodynamic-certified vines. This is the 28th vintage of this ‘Julius’ riesling.

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Henschke ‘Julius’ Riesling 2019
Eden Valley, South Australia $55.00 11.5% alcohol
This leaps from the glass with myriad aromas of floral notes, lemon-lime zest, sharp, flinty notes and exotic piquant spice. It races over the palate in a laser-like line of bracing acidity expressed in palate flavours with excellent tension—white grapefruit, saline notes and lime cordial. This medium-bodied, well textured gem has an extended life ahead, now to 2028 with careful cellar management in place. There is persistent purity of fruit and dry, crisp, thirst-quenching flavours throughout. Pour with duck confit or charcuterie board with a baguette. (Vic Harradine)

• The following 2015 Henschke ‘Mount Edelstone’ Shiraz is sourced from a vineyard of vines originally supplied by James Busby who had sourced from some of the best shiraz vines in France including Hermitage. It was Ronald Angas who fell in love with French red wines who dreamed of this single-varietal vineyard of shiraz while studying at Oxford and planted it some 107 years before fruit for this wine was harvested from it. In 1952, 5th generation Colin Angas offered the fruit from this vineyard to his neighbour, 4th generation winemaker Cyril Henschke. And the rest, they say, is history.

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Henschke ‘Mount Edelstone’ Shiraz 2015
Eden Valley, South Australia $270.00 14.5% alcohol
This is rich, luscious and structured with great purity of fruit, balance and an über-lengthy finish. It opens with lifted aromas of savoury herbs, eucalyptus and a pleasant volley of fruit aromas with black currant, juicy dark Bing cherry interwoven with wisps of rose petals and cedar. The palate’s treated to a fully textured river of dark bramble berry, black cherry and blueberry decorated with dried herbs and black pepper. It finishes lengthy and luscious with good tang and acidity and firm, ripe tannin that almost melts in your mouth. This took great willpower to spit, rather than swallow. Drink now after a three-hour aeration/decant and on to +2040. (Vic Harradine)

Rockford Wines

April 29, 2020 by Vic Harradine

One man, owner Robert O’Callaghan, stands above all whether you merely scratch the surface or you dig deep at Rockford to explain their incredible wines and overall popularity and success. Gazing firmly in the rear-view mirror with a laser-like focus on the past, he’s an anomaly in a world driven by change. He makes wine at every price point that attracts wine-lovers, wine judges, wine critics and writers as much today, as ever. Rockford has two wines listed in the über-premium ‘ Langton’s Classification of Australia’s Fine Wines ’. Robert loves old vines, old boats, old equipment, old traditions and old techniques. He not only talks the talk, he walks the walk. The only obvious changes at Rockford from how wine has been traditionally made in the new world, are: mechanical cooling systems and cultured yeast; all else seems from the past.

Robert O’Callaghan

Winecurrent was there at the beginning of the 2020 harvest, and observed hand-harvested fruit brought to the winery in small containers on the back of an old farm truck (see photo below). It was passed by hand and pitch fork through a small window to a chute leading to a late 1800s Bagshaw de-stemmer / crusher that was being run by an 8 hp gasoline engine built in 1910. The engine was just recently converted from a two-man, handle-crank start to electric, due to safety concerns. An electric starter was sourced, and later adapted, from an antique car. Grapes were then gently transported to open-top, bees-wax lined, concrete fermenters with some making their way to full-slab slate fermenters rescued from a local winery moving on to more contemporary material. There were small, gentle, wooden, basket presses awaiting completion of fermentation.

Old truck at Rockford

For a brief look at just a few of the processes withstanding the test of time and championed at Rockford Cellars, watch this just-under 5-minute video. If you’re a wine lover, you’ll be fascinated by many of the things you see and hear.

Rockford wines are highly sought after and a challenge to source. To enquire, contact their Ontario wine agent, Breakthrough Beverage Group, for assistance/information on how you can purchase and have delivered to your home: Phone 647-790-0550 option 2, Fax 647-776-7800 or by Email at infobw@breakthroughbev.com.

When you visit Australia, once the planet has corralled this virus, book an appointment to visit the winery tasting room, just north of Adelaide.

• Fruit for the following Rockford 2018 Eden Valley Riesling was hand harvested from premium, hand-pruned, old vines growing in cool-climate Eden Valley—it’s released at least 12 months later than most Eden Valley Riesling, gaining weight and complexity in the process.

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Rockford Eden Valley Riesling 2018
Eden Valley, South Australia $45.00 12.1% alcohol
Mineral notes, citrus and hints of green apple abound on the nose of this gorgeous riesling. It surges over the palate with a delightful wash of Key lime cordial interwoven with racy lemon curd, a hint of white peach and a wash of lip-smacking tang and notions of flinty mineral notes. This is medium weight with good mouthfeel and persistent purity of fruit and flavour through the lengthy mouth-watering finish and aftertaste. Pour with charcuterie, a deli platter or bocconcini and tomato slices under a dousing of olive oil and dots of balsamic vinegar topped with fresh basil. (Vic Harradine)

• The following Semillon pays homage to two long-time growers from whom the fruit for the following was sourced—the Sibley and Kalleske families. It’s also slotted in for a Spring, 2020 release through their Ontario agent Breakthrough Beverage Group. See contact information and how to order through them above.

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Rockford ‘Local Growers’ Semillon 2018
Barossa Valley, South Australia $55.00 11.2% alcohol
Fruit for this value-packed gem was picked at the peak of ripeness with three triages made through the vines. Aromas of honeysuckle, yellow peach, ripe apricot and floral notes abound. It’s fully flavoured and simply delicious. It delights the palate and persists through the finish and aftertaste. This is balanced on a pin, medium-plus weight with good mouthfeel enhanced by a bit of oak ageing that also contributes to the weight and texture. Pour now with a pork roast or roast chicken. (Vic Harradine)

• The must—grape skins and seed—from an Alicante Bouchet saignée, Rosé-styled wine, was utilized in the following wine, hence the ‘Frugal Farmer’ moniker. Keeping with the theme, it was sealed under screw cap—less expensive than cork—an anomaly for Rockford table wine.

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Rockford ‘Frugal Farmer’ Grenache/Mataro/Alicante Bouchet 2019
Eden Valley, South Australia $22.50 12.6% alcohol
Floral notes and red and black berry fruit aromas precede a lively and fresh stream of palate flavours with of red currant and passion fruit intertwined with ripe black cherry and ripe black plum and sprigs of savory herbs. There’s good mouthfeel and plenty of tang from twist top to last drop in this red blend—it’s medium bodied and finishes quite lengthy. It’s good to go now and pours well with red pizza or pastitsio. (Vic Harradine)

• The following blend of grenache, mataro - aka mourvèdre - and syrah was sourced from select vineyards in the some of the driest areas in the Barossa—Moppa Springs, Ebenezer and Kalimna. It was fermented in open-top slate tanks with juice pumped over skins several times a day to obtain full flavour, colour and tannin before basket pressed then individual components matured in seasoned oak casks for over 12 months.

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Rockford ‘Moppa Springs’ Grenache/Mataro/Shiraz 2016
Barossa Valley, South Australia $55.00 13.9% alcohol
This 55% grenache/30% mataro/15% shiraz red blend opens with aromas of violets, savoury herbs and dark berry fruit aromas. A gusher of rich and unctuous flavour blankets the palate with cassis and mulberry decorated with piquant spice and sprigs of savoury herbs. It’s medium-full bodied with creamy-smooth mouthfeel and a truckload of charm. The lingering finish adds a healthy dollop of tang and a ripe, soft underpinning of tannin. Pour alongside grilled lamb chops (Vic Harradine)

• The following 2016 Rockford ‘Rod and Spur’ is 53% shiraz and 47% cabernet sauvignon and is named for the hard-working, independent growers who spend the cool winters hand-pruning myriad vines in the traditional ‘rod and spur’ method.

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Rockford ‘Rod and Spur’ Shiraz/Cabernet Sauvignon 2016
Barossa Valley, South Australia $75.00 13.8% alcohol
Perfumed aromas of floral notes, mixed spice, earthy notes and savory herbs are the clarion call for palate flavours of peppery spice, red currant and minty notes decorated with pie cherry and black plum that infuse the finish and aftertaste. This is medium weight with deft balance, complexity and mouth-watering tang on the lengthy finish. It gained texture and cohesiveness spending 24 months in large, well-seasoned oak barrels. Pour now with grilled rack of lamb, and with careful cellaring on to 2038. (Vic Harradine)

• You’ll find the following Rockford ‘Basket Press’ Shiraz listed in the top tier of the über-premium ‘Langton’s Classification of Australia’s Fine Wines’ placing it with 21 other wines—including Penfold’s ‘Grange’, Henschke’s ‘Hill of Grace’ and Jim Barry’s ‘The Armagh’—as the most highly sought-after Australian wines on the open market. It spent 24 months maturing in wood and additional 18 months in bottle before release. This evocative shiraz showcases owner Robert O’Callaghan’s dedication and single-minded focus on delivering the best wine, from the best fruit using traditional thinking and methods. It’s literally hand made in the fashion of the Australian pioneers who formed strong bonds with neighbours, the land, the vines and the fruit of the vine, many generations ago.

• The following 2014 Rockford Basket Press Shiraz is slated for a September 3, 2020 release through the LCBO Classics Catalogue. If this comes to pass, I venture there won’t be many bottles on offer and they will go quite quickly. This wine has a cult-like following in Australia and abroad. If you cast bait in these high-end waters, you will want to reel in one or more of these.

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Rockford ‘Basket Press’ Shiraz 2014
Barossa, South Australia $115.00 (736488) 13.9% alcohol
Fruit was hand harvested from a host of select vineyards with dry-grown, old vines—up to 140 years old—in numerous sub-regions of the Barossa. Aromas of black currant and violets, with wisps of earthy and gamey notes, precede an elegant river of persistent purity of fruit with delectable dark bramble berry, black juicy cherry and racy red currant to the fore. This is an excellent vintage showcasing deft balance of laser-like tangy acidity, powerful ripe fruit flavours and a firm, ripe tannin structure. Pop corks 2024 to 2034. (Vic Harradine)

• And now for something completely different; the following Non-Vintage Rockford ‘Black Shiraz’ Sparkling wine pays homage to an iconic style of Australian wine that was produced generations ago and nearly lost to the voracious appetite of consumers and winemakers looking for something new. When syrah vines were brought to Australia, they were referred to as Black Shiraz. A popular way to make wine for a number of keen winemakers was to make a sparkling wine—Méthode Traditionnelle—out of this new variety. Rockford and a handful of other South Australia wineries, including Seppelt and Majella have either continued to make or brought back this style of wine by reaching into the past rather than looking to the future. The wines produced by the above three, and there are surely others, are not anything like the sweet, cloying kind to which most consumers in Canada and U.S. have access. The base of the following wine comes from shiraz made by Rockford owner, Robert O’Callaghan, in the 1970s.

• The following Non-Vintage Rockford ‘Black Shiraz’ Sparkling wine was disgorged in 2019. It’s suggested by Rockford, and some Australian wine critics, these should be consumed within five years after disgorgement, although some last much longer. This wine is listed in the ‘Outstanding’ category of the ‘Langton’s Classification of Australia’s Fine Wines’.

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Rockford ‘Black Shiraz’ Sparkling Non-Vintage
Barossa, South Australia $125.00 13.5% alcohol
Aromas of dark berry fruit and violets make way for a delightful mouthful of fine-bead bubbles tantalizing the palate decorated with flavours of dark berry fruit—plum, black currant and black juicy cherry—adorned with wisps of black licorice. This tastes very much like a highly rated, still, table-wine shiraz only chilled and with bubbles. It’s surprisingly soft and creamy-smooth on the palate and finishes lengthy and dry with excellent balance and flavourful fruit throughout. A treat to serve as a welcoming wine to guests or alongside a wide variety of appetizers. However, best of luck in finding access to it. (Vic Harradine)

• The Paddle Steamer ‘Marion’, is pictured on the label of the following Tawny-styled, fortified wine and part of the proceeds from sales go to preserving this 1897 steam-driven, Murray River icon. Rockford have a number of old barrels of wine that go into the making of this wine and they encourage visitors to look up at the ceiling rafters of the tasting room to catch a glimpse of some that are still maturing for future releases.

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Rockford ‘PS Marion - Old Barossa - V.S. Tawny’ Non-Vintage
Barossa, South Australia $75.00 19.0% alcohol
Aromas of roasted nuts, caramel and dried fruit introduce this fortified, viscous gem. It dazzles the palate with rich ripe flavours of a blend of barrel-aged five- to eighty-year-old wine without being cloying. The palate’s treated to a smorgasbord of flavours—more semi-sweet than sweet—with dates and figs rubbing shoulders with sharp spice, high spirits and hints of currants. It’s medium-full bodied and well balanced throughout. Sip on its own or pair with smoked cheddar or Manchego cheese. (Vic Harradine)