New in Vintages—December 23, 2022
Vintages Release: November 5, 2022
• The following 2020 Paolo Leo ‘Passo del Cardinale - Primitivo di Manduria’ was sourced from 100% primitivo fruit—a.k.a. zinfandel. After harvesting fruit in the cool early morning, it is then crushed, destemmed and cool fermented in steel vats at a controlled cool-temperature of 25 °C, before maturing for 3 months in American oak and 6 months in stainless steel. Often a 2nd harvest can be held approximately three weeks after the first was completed. After fermentation, this 2nd harvest can be added to that already fermented adding body and freshness to the finished and soon-to-be bottled wine.
91 
Paolo Leo ‘Passo del Cardinale - Primitivo di Manduria’ 2020
DOP Primitivo di Manduria, Italy $19.95 (496463) 14.0% alcohol
This is dark and brooding in the glass and close to being opaque. The gentlest of swirls will provide you a glorious gusher of fruit-forward aromas with red and black cherry/berry to the fore. The palate’s then treated to a deftly balanced gusher of delightful flavours of juicy black Bing cherry, ripe delectable black currant along with notions of blueberry and oodles of tang and pizzazz in the form of passionfruit, red pie cherry and red currant jelly. It’s creamy smooth on the palate with plenty of fruit flavours coming and going in the juicy finish and the mouth-watering aftertaste. Pour this gem with mushroom risotto and meat-lovers red pizza. (Vic Harradine)
Vintages Release: November 19, 2022
• The following méthode traditionelle, vintage-dated, 2016 Henry of Pelham ‘Cuvée Catharine – Carte Blanche - Estate - Blanc de Blancs ’ is named for family matriarch Catherine Smith—Henry of Pelham’s wife. It was hand-harvested, bunch-selected from 100% chardonnay, whole-cluster pressed, partially barrel- fermented, maturing on its lees more than four years in the bottle(s) you purchase before disgorgement—aka, expelling spent yeast cells from the 2nd fermentation in this bottle.
93 🇨🇦
Henry of Pelham ‘Cuvée Catharine – Carte Blanche - Estate - Blanc de Blanc’ 2016
VQA Short Hills Bench $49.95 (315200) 12.5% alcohol
This top-notch, vintage-dated sparkling wine is one of the top traditional-method, vintage-dated sparkling wines on the market, regardless of country of origin. Aromas of yeasty notes, baking brioche and flinty minerality make way for a profusion of fine-bead bubbles that endlessly wind their way to the top of your glass. This has complexity, purity of fruit, good tension, is well balanced with a painter’s palette of lively flavour—a surge of racy lemon and lime tang adorned with white nectarine, nutty and mineral notes dazzle the palate infusing the lingering finish and aftertaste. This is classy, elegant and wired for sipping on its own for two or with festive food when entertaining, e.g. roast turkey or bone-in baked ham with all the fixings. (Vic Harradine)
Vintages Release: December 3, 2022
• The following 2016 Jim Barry Wines ‘Single Vineyard – Eastern Ranges’ cabernet sauvignon was sourced from 100% estate vineyards at 480m above sea level in the iconic Geographical Indication of Clare Valley with the average age of vines at 19 years when harvested for this wine. Drinking well now and on to 2027 with careful cellaring. Jim Barry Wines is a member of the tightly knit group of wineries that continue to be owned and operated by descendants of the original family, Click on this link to learn more about Jim Barry Wines and this incredible group, the Australian First Families of Wine.
95
Jim Barry Wines ‘Single Vineyard – Eastern Ranges’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2016
G.I. Clare Valley, South Australia $29.95 (26925) 14.1% alcohol
Fruit-forward aromas of ripe mulberry, black cherry and overripe damson plum jam adorned with hints of black licorice precede palate flavours that are fruit forward and replay the aromas along with excellent tang and plenty of pizzazz throughout. It showcases deft balance, delectable—pure ambrosia—flavours and persistent purity of fruit to and through the lip-smacking finish and lingering, mouth-watering aftertaste. This also has structure and a creamy-smooth mouthfeel underpinned by fine-grain, soft, ripe tannin. Give this a go with rack of lamb slathered with spicy barbecue sauce. It would also be welcomed as a gift to the host of a festive-dinner. (Vic Harradine)
Vintages Release: December 17, 2022
• The following Castelli del Castelgreve ‘Riserva’ 2018 was the Wine of the Month in the December 17, 2022 Vintages release.
92
Castelli del Castelgreve ‘Riserva’ 2018
DOCG Chianti Classico, Italy $18.95 (421388) 13.5% alcohol
A delightfully aromatic sangiovese from the historic heartland of the Chianti region dishes up piquant spice of cloves and ginger along with black currant, black raspberry and hints of mocha with the gentlest of swirls. The palate’s treated to a generous river of aroma replays as well as a balanced stream of purity of fruit flavours that persist to and through the finish and aftertaste—black cherry, black plum and ripe mulberry. There is good balance from the fruit, tang and pizzazz, and the barely noticeable soft, ripe tannin. Pour alongside pasta puttanesca, spaghetti Bolognaise or fettuccine Alfredo. (Vic Harradine)
• The following 2020 Lungarotti ‘certified organic’ Rosso was sourced from estate-grown, sagrantino grapes and is also in Vintages now.
92
Lungarotti ‘certified organic – Rosso 2020
IGT Umbria, Italy $26.95 (16573) 14.0% alcohol
Lifted aromas of wood smoke, gamy notes, black licorice and black plum compote provide segue to a medium-bodied, fruit-laced river of palate flavours with red cherry and plenty of pizzazz. It’s consistent from cork pop to last drop with an added underpinning of soft, ripe tannin on the smooth and mellow finish and aftertaste. Pour alongside hearty fare—cassoulet, chilli con carne or meat-laden lasagna. (Vic Harradine)
• The following 2019 Yalumba Family Winemakers ‘Organic’ Shiraz saw no chemical fertilizers or pesticides in making this wine. It was fermented by wild yeasts appearing naturally from six vineyards that are family-owned and accredited organic—along with one vineyard that’s accredited bio-dynamic—and also on the skins of the grapes harvested for this wine. This wine is also accredited Vegan-friendly. Yalumba Family Winemakers is a member of the tightly knit group of wineries that continue to be owned and operated by descendants of the original family, Click on this link to learn more about Yalumba and this incredible group in the Australian First Families of Wine.
93
Yalumba Family Winemakers ‘Organic – Vegan-friendly’ Shiraz 2019
G.I. South Australia, Australia $17.95 (280883) 14.0% alcohol
A bright magenta in the glass, it offers up delightful aromas of grilled savoury herbs, piquant spice and cracked black peppercorns intertwined with black plum, ripe mulberry and juicy black Bing cherries. The palate’s treated to a medium-plus bodied, well-balanced stream of s creamy smooth mouthfeel, soft, ripe tannin underpinning, persistent purity of fruit-forward flavours with mulberry, black currant and juicy dark Bing cherry to the fore, with plenty of tang and pizzazz persisting to and through the lengthy, lip-smacking finish and mouth-watering aftertaste. A lovely drop on its own; it also plays well with grilled rack of lamb, roast chicken or pan-grilled pork cutlets with a panko crust. (Vic Harradine)
• The following Non-Vintage Boizel ‘Réserve’ Brut was sourced from the following grape varieties—30% chardonnay/55% pinot noir/15% pinot meunier. The Boizel family began their lengthy and incredibly successful journey as a Champagne producer in 1834 and they still own the winery and manage the brand and the wine with Florent Roques-Boizel as their present winemaker.
93 
Boizel ‘Réserve’ Brut - Non-Vintage Champagne
Épernay, Champagne, France $64.95 (25514) 12.0% alcohol
A gorgeous mousse of tiny, fine-bead bubbles make their way to the top of the light yellow-gold liquid in the glass eventually forcing delightful aromas of floral notes, baking brioche and notions of minerality filling the air above the glass and the bubbles. On the palate it’s quite fruit-forward with lemon curd and hints of salinity adorned with green apple, poached pear and black plum all making their way to the mid-palate, finish and aftertaste. Give this a place at the table to pour with French onion soup, cassoulet or with a baked, bone-in ham with cloves decorating the outside of the ham then basted with maple syrup. (Vic Harradine)