Black Bank Hill ’Runway White’ 2021
VQA Lincoln Lakeshore, Ontario $25.00 13.0% alcohol
This is an uncommon blend of barrel fermented viognier and chardonnay combined with stainless-steel fermented gewürztraminer and chenin blanc surprisingly getting along pretty well. While the French oak barrels were pre-used, they still convey quite a bit of nice wood character noticeable on the first nose—vanilla, caramel, spices—requiring extra swirling for the peach and citrus aromas to emerge. The palate is concentrated and rich with stone fruit flavours, salted butter character lifted with bright citrus acidity and kicks of spicy ginger lingering in the finish and aftertaste. Definitely an intriguing medium-full-bodied white to discover. Baked ham with cauliflower au gratin or butternut squash ravioli would make excellent pairings. (Louise Boutin)